Saturday, 10 August 2013

Day - 3 with Mamady Keita (New Rhythms)

Today's excellence is tomorrow's tradition; a beautiful thought I've been chewing on all day.

Today we learned some new rhythms created by Mamady. He announced during the inauguration gathering that this time, apart from traditional rhythms, he would focus on his own rhythms as well. This was all a part of telling new stories that will turn into epics and soon after, tradition. There are many popular traditional rhythms like Kuku and Mendiani; whose origins are unknown today because the story, the philosophy wasn't transmitted or got lost along the way. Today thanks to our handy-dandy Dictaphone and recording devices a legend shall live on... mainly in our beings.

The first rhythm we learned was called, 'SIRA.' This is a rhythm created by Mamady Keita in 2007 dedicated to his mother, 'Nasira.' With a bout of inspiration, he woke up the day before yesterday early in the morning with the words and tune to this song and since he didn't want to disturb his wife and daughter he recorded the tune on his phone in the toilet. We are all lucky to witness this; history in the making I think..

Mamady's moother was a great woman. She went to a fortune-teller when she was pregnant with Mamady and she was told that 'he will make a name by amusing himself.' And so it was... Mamady, at a very young age started playing on pots and pans. Mamady got his first djembe at a very young age; the instrument was taller then him many would say. After a very sacred offering of cola nuts to his to-be teacher, we have what we see before us today - a true master. Mamady's Master's full name is Karinka Djan Conde. First name is Karinka and family name is Conde.The middle name 'Djan' means 'Big' because he was a big man. He was not a famous musician. Mamady describes him as 'a simple farmer in our village. But a true Master'.

Mamady is the last (7th) child of his family. Nasira, his mother, gave him everything he ever needed. She would say, "Take the best of me and father and leave the bad part." It was because of his mother that Mamady was bestowed with true values, with respect, with education; all pillars to help build his philosophy. "I will follow her advise forever since my present is her gift," he said.

For the first time online, (I believe) the words for 'SIRA', by Mamady Keita:

Ee Sira Demoila (You, who has children)

Na Sira Demoila Gnuma (My Sira {short for Nasira} You are a good mother)

This is what the song sounds like with the Dununs and Mamady playing the djembe when he is not singing:

Sira

The song is played much faster during performances. The group was at a stage where this speed seemed right. This song has a haunting nature to it. It is one of those songs that reminded me of many a 'Bhajan' sung during 'Satsangs or Kirtans' back  home. It's a repetitive tune that is easy to sing and has an instant appeal to one and all. I suspect we will be singing this sometime soon during djembe class in Pune soon!
And as promised, the sweet song that the advance level sang and played yesterday is called 'YELENA'. This is also a rhythm that Mamady created. The rhythm, you heard yesterday. The song that goes with it is the sweetest song I have heard in a while. It's a naughty yet cute way of asking for forgiveness. I think it's something us guys could use to set things right with our loved ones. (And for those with things all fine and dandy with their ladies, keep this in your repertoire... I'm sure it'll be of use one day!) The words to the song are:

Yelena N'Doni (Smile at me my dear)

Yelena N'Sonte (It's not my fault)

And this is what it sounds like: Yelena

The recording of the group singing the song yesterday was bad and so I couldn't upload it; But it sounded like a beautiful church song. This one is just a substitute to give you a better idea of the song. Women, don't you just feel more forgiving now?

Coming back to today's class... the next rhythm we started but didn't finish due to lack of time is called, 'BARA'. There is a short emphasis of both the syllables in the word. If one emphasized on the first syllable only the word would mean 'work' and if one focused only on the second, it'd mean a certain type of gourd. Malinke is such a language where emphasis and accent is very important.

'Bara' is the place where the village festivals are held. When Mamady was very young, he was taken away from his village Balandugu to brought to Siguiri. Mamady cried all the way up to his destination. He was sad and lost since he was separated from his family, his friends, his village, separated from the 'Dubalen' (a tree that saw him grow up.) In Siguiri some people called him to the bara and that was where his journey with the djembe continued and grew without limits. Mamady returned to Balandugu only after 26 years. That was how long he was on his own. He hence, made this rhythm in memory of the bara in Siguiri as he will never forget the day he arrived there, young, lost and weary. This song is an anchor reminding each and every one of us about courage and excellence; two values this master embodies.

Mamady Keita in his element
This is what Bara sounds like: Bara

Tomorrow is class with Famoudou again. I wonder what dance, song, rhythm we are going to get into... I wonder where I'm going to be taken and then I say, as long as my foundation is strong, wherever I fly, I do with courage and excellence...

Wassa Wassa everybody.

Come. Drum. Be One.

Taal Inc.

Day 4 - With Famoudou Konate: More Songs, Rhythms, Stories and Revelations

Famoudou Konate and Mamady Keita, both, keep emphasizing the importance of woman. They say that, their entire past, present and future was carved out of, is the gift of and lies in the hands of a woman. It was women who would organize festivals where  Djembefola's would be invited. It was the women, because of whose behaviour and respect, the character of all men, both young and old, was built. Both masters mention this repeatedly and rightfully so, today's day is a tribute to women.

Since Famoudou was running a bit late, Michael  Taylor from Holy Goat Percussion started us off on a nice warm up exercise; A triplet-Bass-Tone-Tone-Bass-Slap-Slap with hands interchanging. Famoudou walked in just as we finished and I feel that he organically structured his session so that he would build our warm up exercise in as one of the accompanying parts for the rhythms to come. Sheer brilliance.

From Left to Right - Hiroki Murai, Monette Marino-Keita Famoudou Konate and Michael Taylor wearing the Taal Inc. T-Shirt
We started off with a rhythm called 'Gidamba'. This is a rhythm that is similar to Tiriba. (Note - Tiriba was originally only played on Djembe's. The Dunun section has been created and so is a modern day adaptation). Gidamba is played for marriage ceremonies, festivals, baptism ceremonies, circumcision ceremonies and many more. There are many songs that can be sung to this rhythm but Famoudou taught us this one as it is in his book-Rhythms and Songs from Guinea.He said, "All  children love their mothers." Children respect their mothers a lot in Africa. They boast of their mother's prowess and neglect their shortcomings. He said, "If your mother is disabled or is a thief or is a small person, you can't say anything back  because she if your mother! You respect her." He said that children could forget their dad's but not their mothers and that if a man is strong it is because his mother respected her husband (his father). Simple, subtle and hard hitting, I think. This is, hence, a rhythm that is for all women, specially those who are mothers.


The words are:

Nankuma Ina Barana

Mona Lena Di

Ina Bake Kundulendi

Mona Lena Di

Nankuma is a name. It could be the name of any woman. Mona Lena Di means, 'Your Mother  is your Mother'. Kundu is a small boy or young boy.

This is what this song sounds like: Gidamba

You will hear a female voice lead the group midway. This woman is 'Mabiba Baenge'. She is somebody Mamady calls, 'mother'. She is a beautiful woman who plays the dununs with as much authority ad she does, the djembe. She also sings like a very strong earthy singer. She has a beautiful smile and is a very warm person to have in class. She is an inspiration to many a woman drummer today.

Famoudou was is great spirits today.  He was carrying around some colourful 'Pom Poms' and I was wondering how it would be of use. Famoudou, is known to surprise and I was very very intrigued.

The next rhythm we played is called 'DABA.' This is a 'Mendiani' family rhythm. Where Famoudou comes from, Hamanah (Upper Guinea), the rhythm Mendiani has become extinct. Only  Daba is now played. To give you a brief background on Mendiani - This is a rhythm and a dance for virgins. Each village usually has four sectors. Each sector will have one 'Mendiani'. One of the women (previously a Mendiani) is considered the 'mother' of the other girls part of this group and will be responsible to teach them the Mendiani dance (as it has particular steps), philosophy and secrets. The dance is very acrobatic and goes on for several hours. One girl (between the ages of 6 and 13) will be chosen by the 'mother' to represent the sector and she will see a Fetish Maker who will bathe the girl and make her 'Gree Gree' or talisman or articles of spiritual power so that the girl feels confident and strong as she dances the Mendiani. As an offering for the Fetish Makers services, four red cola nuts from  the 'Lenke' tree or one 'Mama Don Don' (a majestic multi colour feathered rooster) are (is) given to him. "If not, it just won't work", said Famoudou.

'Da' means pot of clay in which 'Gree  Gree' is stored.

'Ba' means big.

Therefore, 'Daba' means the big clay pot where 'Gree Gree' is stored. The song is sung by the other young girls as the chosen one dances the Mendiani. They sing about how the 'Gree Gree' that was in the 'Daba' made by the fetish maker has helped the chosen one dance her heart out and emerge as number one.

The lyrics  of the song:

Onde  Onde

E Daba Diya

La Gyi Dio N'de

Here's what it sounds like: Daba

I notice that I have not spoken about drumming much in today's entry. Let's just say that the drumming is heating up just like the Echauffements in the rhythms. An Echauffement is the section of the rhythm where the dancer comes  in and signals an increase in intensity, tempo and overall dynamic of everything- djembe, dununs and all. And every 'Echauff' (as it is known in short) differs; there are many a pattern. We had some wicked patterns thrown at us which we gladly ate up, hungry for  more.
Midway we shifted to the dununs and boy was that section powerful. The dunun section for both these rhythms resembled our Ganesh Chaturti Dhol and Tasha Procession rhythm quite a bit. I was in the seventh heaven playing the Dununba,  Sangban and Kenkeni parts for these rhythms. The Dununba pattern for Daba did fox me a little bit but thanks to Tara and the other Aussies, I figured it out.
This section was specially entertaining as Famoudou put to good use all the decorations he has brought with him. Here, have a look see -

Famoudou loving his bad self
Famoudou is a great dancer ladies and gentlemen. He is the most vibrant man (in his late sixties I'd imagine) I've seen so far. God bless his energy and kind soul. I do believe that a true master is gauged by his humility and his warmth apart from his talent. That is why people from all over the globe flock to one place to be witness to these two institutions of West-African drumming and culture.

I left with high spirits...

I had to move hotels since the one where I was staying would become expensive since a convention was taking place. This means cash-in time for hotels. I have not moved to 500 West hotel on Broadway. One of the drummers, Kaylie was kind enough to give me a ride all the way so I didn't have to lug my baggage all over the city walking. The new room is smaller but I will survive; as long as there is rhythm, I will survive.

I was invited over to the Aussie-home (where Tara, Michi, Bruce, Linda, Raphael and Nancy live) for dinner where chef Bruce had barbecued up a storm. They say that a family that eats together, stays together... amen to that guys! In return I have promised them India food. So, all you master Indian cooks reading this, please leave your comments as to what I should  make for them that's easy, quick and representative of our oh-so-complicated-culinary-culture.

Until then, I shall sleep over  it and prepare myself for a day with Mamady and a wonderful weekend ahead!

Goodnight World.

Come. Drum. Be One.

Friday, 9 August 2013

The Largest Drum Circle in the World!!!

The Largest Drum Circle in the World by Taal Inc. (Pune/India)
On the brink of this beautiful  event in 2013 I'd like to revisit the spirit of the largest drum circle in the world from the yeah before last.

2011:

It is a world-wide campaign where people all over, drumming enthusiasts from every corner of the world will be drumming on the 17th of September for peace, harmony, unity and community.

Taal Inc. is the flag bearer for the  Pune/India leg  of this campaign. We drum  at Arc Asia on Saturday the 17th of September from 6:00pm - 7:30pm.

Having said all of this... What is the largest drum circle in the world really?

In all honesty,

It is a commitment; to ourselves to reach out to the depths of ones core to bring out the absolute best from within.

It is place of openness; where no matter who you are, what you do, how fat a salary package you bring back home every month, you can sit in silence with others  and experience a glimpse of an energy that is so powerful, of which we are all stakeholders.

It is a reminder; to live in harmony with the world, to not hurt one another, to spread love, to share and to  not lie to one another for the sake of primary or secondary gain.

It is an opportunity; to materialize a dream of being carefree, unafraid of external judgement and actually live like nature intended us to live, like a child, full of curious questions and undying spiritual awareness.

It is a cry; to all those unaware and ignorant to open  their eyes, ears and beings to a greater cause, a greater moral police - the person they see each day in the mirror.

It  is a challenge; to each and every one of us to face our inner fears head-on and to stare it in the eye and say, 'Yes. I believe in myself.'

It is a magnifying glass; to show everyone that the heart sees no borders, no religions, no colours, no caste, no war and knows no discrimination.

It is the ripple effect; of positive, peaceful vibrations.

In this spirit, regardless of the  number of people we will have drumming with us this Saturday, I promise you the largest drum circle in the world.

Come. Drum. Be One.

Taal Inc.

Saturday, 27 April 2013

UK: Day 1: My first trip to the motherland

This was the first time my research work would take me to another country... Exciting.

confusing...? Pfft!! Not at all....
The one person instrumental in this process is Dr. Stephen Clift. His encouragement, patience and support has been extraordinary and it was great to finally get a chance to meet him.

I landed in Heathrow airport and was greeted by the most ridiculous or (few might say) funny / humorous immigration officer. His interest in my reason of visiting the UK went from official to personal to borderline humiliating. It was when the gentleman asked me whether the participants of the drum circle session I facilitated for rescued commercial sex workers were 'clothed' during the session or not, that I decided to let my defense-mechanism / nervous laughter diffuse the awkwardness created by his obnoxiousness and move on and hope that the rest of the people I met would be more, well, 'normal'. I'm glad to report, that they were...

I'd like to thank the wonderful Liisa Andersson, or now christened, Liila, for her lovely hospitality and welcome. UK wouldn't have been the same without her.

Liisa Andersson (holding some frozen snow for the benefit of yours truly)
Drumming on the first evening in UK was one of the highlights as I got to witness the active Djembe community at Wendover (close to Amersham). Justine Hart has been working for over ten years tirelessly and regularly conducting these weekly classes and the sheer attendance and energy of the group speaks for itself. It was great to meet Steve, Barry and Tony from the UK drummers (those i first met in Abene, Senegal) once again. Big up Justine, Hart Beats and the UK drummers. I look forward to welcoming you all to India soon.

Justine Hart and the Drummers from Wendover!
A glimpse of the Wendover drummers, led by Justine Hart.

The next day we made our way to 'sunny' Folkstone. It took us less time to travel to the south east coast of UK than it did to get to Amersham by the tube (please refer tube map above). It was nice to soak in small city (dare I say, 'village') lifestyle. People were not as open as villagers in India but it was great to be there, soaking in the anonymity and preparing for the presentation and sessions to come.

'Sunny' Folkstone - Brrrrrr (As I put another layer of clothing)

Come. Drum. Be One.

Taal Inc.

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Tuesday, 5 March 2013

Day 28 & 29: Home Sweet Home

Day 28 & 29 22/1/13 & 23/1/13 - flight back home

I'm not very good with goodbye's and even though it was a quick one with Tannis, I'd like to thank her from the bottom of my heart for being an absolutely wonderful co-traveler. Anyone who can tolerate me has my respect and Tannis, you take first prize. Thank you for a wonderful trip and for making me feel at home, away from home.

Partners in Crime - Tannis Zimmer and myself
I had an early start to the day since I had to be at the airport by 5:00 am for my 8:00 am flight. I knew I had excess baggage so I thought being early wouldn't hurt; it would only compliment the smiling and charming I would have to do at the airport to not pay an arm and a leg to bring a lovely djembe back to India. But alas, I guess I lack the smile. Nonetheless, I was all checked in soon enough to have a lot of time to sit and reflect on the last 27 days and how they passed by so quickly with a lot to take away and absorb.

It has sure been a long time that I have been away from all I know and am familiar with. I reconfirmed my hatred of being just a tourist in a new land. Hence it felt good to have two clear reasons for travel: the drum and vipassana meditation. This way I will always get a more in depth understanding of the culture by interacting with the people on a much deeper level than otherwise.

These 3 weeks have given me a lot to chew on in terms of the djembe, rhythms, solo techniques, songs, performance standards, tightness, dance and most importantly, West African (Senegalese) culture.

Some of the points that stand out are the similarities between Indian and Senegalese culture. We have many ethnic groups in India, with different languages, ceremonies, food, music and so on. Expressing oneself within this fabric of music, song and dance is a very important part of rural / village life in West Africa and in India. It is truly amazing, how the Djembe, the Sabar and just any kind of drum and performance can bring so much joy to an audience and the only way for the audience to appreciate that is by going up to the drummers and dancing leading up to the echauffment or singing or clapping very naturally in complicated polyrhythms or rhythmic subdivisions. I also note a major difference. I see that the people here, be them in a village or a city, are very comfortable and open with their sexuality. In my opinion, this is not as strong in India. Indian rural culture is far more conservative on the whole. This explains a lot of behaviour experienced in village life in Abene, for instance. When people come up to a foreigner and just start talking, initially, it is about being welcome in the village, then maybe about selling you something and then maybe just about chatting over some sweet and strong green tea. I find the same behaviour in India minus the genuine curiosity that fuels the chatting over tea, for example.

'Same same but different,' as they say in Thailand rings true at this moment.

As of now, I return with a heart full of new connections that I wish to explore, nourish and strengthen. Some connections are external and some internal. I feel I am more patient than when I set off for Senegal a month ago. I feel more comfortable with the path I'm on and have re-fueled my energy levels to carry on full speed ahead.

I feel blessed to have a very supporting family because if it wasn't for them none of this would be a reality. My second family, those who work with me, the entire Taal Inc. team have held fort so formidably that I can't wait to get back and experience this camaraderie that has now come to fruition.

There are a lot of things I have missed: my bed, Indian food, the chaos, the ease of communication and my work. I am happy to get back to these things and dive straight in to the work that lies ahead of me.

There are a lot of things that I will miss: the peaceful and laid back way of life in Abene, the food, the green tea (although I will try to make this when I am in India), the sound of the djembe in every soundscape that one is in, the music and the people who have grown so close to me.

I now wait to board my flight from Dakar to Bamako (possibly to Ouagadougou), followed by Adis Ababa, then Mumbai and finally Pune. Bon voyage to me and peace, love and light to all of you for having taken this journey with me.

One FINAL Group photo - photo credits - Tanya Price
Come. Drum. Be One.

Taal Inc.

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Monday, 4 March 2013

Day 26 & 27: Goodbye Abene, Hello Ziguinchor and Dakar!

Day 26 & 27 20/1/13 & 21/1/13 - departure to Ziguinchor and Dakar.

Today onward, starts the travel back home. I travel in small steps, gradually. My packing was almost done. I left all the clothes that I came with, with Coral to be given to this Leprosy community in Ziguinchor. That way, things that I don't need go to people who have nothing. I made sure that the staff at Les Belles Etoille also got a little something each. I was pretty much travelling with only my djembe, the skins (which I would check in) and a little suitcase with almost nothing. Not bad for a month’s travel huh? In spite of this I was ten kilos overweight. Sigh, I took a walk around the hotel where we had been every day, so regularly, to give it one final glance.

It is customary of Africans to give fruits to people who are setting out on a journey. So we had our share of fruit given very generously by the cleaning lady whom I never spoke to but always saw working had every day. I was very touched by her generosity.

With every few days the groups in the group photos kept getting more and more intimate. This was the final group as Tannis, Owen and I said our goodbyes.

The last group photo in Abene, Les Belles Etoilles.
Abudu drove us to Kafountine from where we would take a share taxi to Ziguinchor. Based on my experience of getting to Abene, I was ready for a very dusty journey. So I wore my skull cap and tied my handkerchief around my face and looked like a dacoit/robber the entire way, but it was worth it. In true style, there was a lot of haggling for payment for the luggage we were carrying and the odd ‘controls’ at the border but nothing we couldn't handle with some help from the locals we were traveling with. After two hours of inhaling dust and being tossed around like salad we reached Ziguinchor and then made our way to Seckou's place where we would meet Alieu, drop Owen and break journey for lunch before we left for the airport and got ready for another set of goodbyes.

Once again, in spite of his crazy schedule, Seckou had organized some Thiebu Djian for us and Even though we were pressed for time, we ate to our stomach's content; quickly, but to its content nonetheless. Khadijah, (Seckou's charming friend) offered to call the airport and let them know that we were on our way. I love that this was possible. I reminded me of Pune airport many years ago. She also drove us there and so we were at ease and didn't have to worry about not making it in time. God bless them. We reached the airport in the nick of time and had help from the airport staff thanks to Seckou and Khadijah. I felt like a rock star in Ziguinchor for a bit.

After having a closer look at the tickets while sorting out the excess baggage formalities (surprise surprise!), I realized that the flight to Ziguinchor was via Cap Skirring. Yet another hopping flight in my destiny. The flight to Cap Skirring was (believe it or not) ten minutes. And here I thought that the Mumbai - Pune flight was short.

We reached Dakar after two hours and went straight to Hotel Kingz Plaza. I felt familiar in an otherwise overwhelming big city. After settling in and freshening up tannis and I decided to head into the city to have dinner. Personally I wanted to eat Maffe Poulet (chicken in peanut sauce) one last time. We found a lovely place randomly from the Internet called Che Loutcha. It was a cute little place with a calm and peaceful ambiance and not to forget, mouth-wateringly delicious food.

That night I slept in since the following night would have to be spent in a flight. I checked my emails after almost a month and started the process of sieving through the junk and spam, under protest, little by little. It felt vaguely different to be connected to the world once again. I'm taking things in small doses so that it's not too much of a blaring shock for me.

To continue the family and familiarity in Dakar, Tannis and I got in touch with Matar, who lived there and had invited us to have lunch with him. He lives in home with his large family and within no time we were relaxing, reminiscing and eating a delicious portion of Thiebu Djian.

lunch at 'Che Matar' ;)
Tannis and Matar, at lunch!
After a filling lunch we decided to act like tourists for a change and hence visited the island of Goree. This is where Senegalese slaves were kept and then shipped to the USA. I had a mixed feeling as I first saw the island from the ferry.

Our first sighting of Goree island from the ferry
I didn't know what exactly to expect. The island now is a tourist destination and despite its dark history is very beautiful. There are a lot of restaurants and handicrafts for sale.

The house of the slaves was definitely a place that made us think about the kind of atrocities humankind if capable of.

some of the rooms at the House of Slaves, Goree Island, Dakar , Senegal
This is the last port (the place the slaves were put into the boats and taken to the USA).

... First person point of view of the 'Last Port' ...Goree Island, Dakar, Senegal
How ironic... the first thing I saw as I walked towards the 'Last Port'
We got back by 8pm and decked to meet Myriam who was also in the city taking her Sabar dancing course. Our last dinner would be one with beautiful people we met, the hospitality of Matar and his sister Khadi and great food.

The Last Supper :)
I was honored by the openness, generosity and hospitality of Matar and his family. I will miss him when I leave. After dinner it was that time again; we said our penultimate goodbyes and took a taxi to the hotel where I'd get three hours of sleep before I embark on my journey home.

Come. Drum. Be One.

Taal Inc.

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Monday, 25 February 2013

Day 24 & 25: The Abene Workshop Hangover

Day 24 & 25 18/1/13 & 19/1/13 - workshop hangover days in Abene

I was a little sad the next morning because I would have to say goodbye to almost all of the people who, over the last 23 days, have become family. Tannis, Justine, Coral, Owen and I were the last crusaders who would stay for another two days to wind down.

The goodbyes started at breakfast itself because everybody would get on a bus and make their way to the Gambia together. We got ready for the group photo. I was the designated photographer. Note to self: So ONLY Tanya's camera has all the people in it.

The final group photo - photo credit: Yours truly!
loading up - not an uncommon sight in India!
fun fact: most transport buses in Senegal (specially Dakar) are Indian (made by TATA)
With a heavy heart, I said my goodbyes to Iya and Mamady. I noticed a drastic difference in the way Mamady was this morning in comparison to the previous night. I call this Mamady's ‘goodbye-persona’. I can only imagine the amount of goodbyes Mamady has been through and this is as good a self-preservation technique as any. I will hold Mamady's words from the previous night close to me saying that he will miss me and wishes me all the best with my journey with the djembe that will reach an examination phase soon. He asked me to have courage but to also take my time.

going up to the master in the crowd
The master - Mamady Keita and myself
The great Iya Sako and me
It wasn't easy for the staff of Les Belles Etoilles as well. Apart from Counba who is used to goodbyes (she said she cried so much after the first ever workshop that she had no tears left), the rest were very sad. I believe that it is this bond that they build with each one of us travelers from different backgrounds and influences. Suddenly it is reduced to emails and the odd SMS or phone call. I'm thankful that this possibility does exist but it can take a lot of getting used to.

Goodbyes are sad...
goodbyes are crazy...
goodbyes are overwhelming...
but goodbyes are mainly very funny...
Two generation Keita's
Fatou, Abudu and Cherno enjoying some down-time
The goodbye took really long:

Mamady the celebrity was off first...
bye bye Mamady and Iya!
we finally reached the 'get-into'the-bus' stage
... and they were off...
I wonder how long they held onto the bus that way...
That afternoon we all found our respective corners to be silent and spend with ourselves. I think Coral probably only just got her first chance to lie on a hammock without worrying about what had to be done the next minute.

our classroom, now empty....but full of energy
The goodbyes weren't over. Matar and Fatou (Coumba's daughter) were to leave that evening to go to Ziguinchor, the Gambia and then Dakar (where we would meet them). Needless to say, more photos followed. (It was my responsibility to supply Matar with his next Facebook photo apparently).

Mr. and Miss. Abene 2012-1013!!
... Will this make it to your FB profile pic Matar...?
lazy times at Les Belles Etoilles...
I accompanied Abudu and Iso (our cook/chef) to Kafountine to drop Matar and Fatou. Little did I know about the many stop-over’s that were to follow after, that I missed the dance class that was scheduled for the evening which I had to accompany.

It's true that, 'The Europeans have watches; the Africans have Time'.

That evening the rest of us headed to the beach for the first time in two weeks.

a common sight on Abene beach in the evenings...
introspection over sunset... bliss!
We decided to go out for dinner to some place new. We went to the same place where we spent new year’s eve. The change of ambience was rather welcome.

here's to lovely memories, good conversations and great food!
Earlier that day, Mokulo, invited Justine and myself to play with his band in the night at 'Che Wora'. This would be my first performance with a local ensemble in Abene- exciting. We did not have time for a rehearsal and so I was very curious as to how Mokulo (also known as 50 Mokh <after 50 cent>) was going to go about this. The show was about to start at midnight after the reggae party would be at its peak. Tannis, Justine, Abudu and I went in the car (to the venue which was very close by) like rock stars. In keeping with African time we started only by 1:30am. Mokulo started with Soko after which I didn't recognize any rhythm. He would start the song and we would start with the accompaniment. I felt proud to be able to perform before an intimate African audience and solo as well. Mokulo is a very good djembe player who I would have liked to hear more of during the three weeks. We played for just over an hour without stops but due to a phenomenon I call, 'drumming with Iya Sako', it felt like nothing. My hands were ready to go through another gig. I came out of that gig feeling very energetic and happy.

The Mokulo Djembe Ensemble
Justine, the beautiful dancer and wicked djembefollette!
djembe hands of fury!! ;)
Since we got back only in the wee hours of the morning we deserved to sleep in and after breakfast I accompanied the dance class on the kenkeni this time, (since this was the last class, the other drummers showed up). We went through all the dances learned during the workshop and hence it was a good revision of the rhythms for me. We also learned the songs of a few of them, in detail.

Dance Class Crew
We also got to watch Salimatu and the band at their best:

Salimatu: djembefollete extraordinaire....
The rest of the afternoon was spent in relaxing on the hammock as planned.

In the evening we were invited to Simon's place for dinner. Simon is from the UK and has moved to Abene permanently. He is married to Khadijah from Abene and works as a photographer. He was also the official photographer of the Abene festival 2012-13. Before heading to his compound we stopped over at Malo's place to watch his band rehearse for some upcoming events and also to collect my djembe from him which has to be pulled and prepared. It was as good as watching a mini performance once again; Pure djembe and dance bliss.

We met Simon at Malo's and then just as the sun was setting, we made our way to Simon's place. He has a beautiful compound which is one hectare, full of nature’s bounty. Step by step he is working on turning it into a sustainable and off the grid compound. His wife, Khadijah is a dancer. We ate fish rice with onions and a spicy and citron-rich sauce in traditional Senegalese style which is two big plates full of food and people eating from the communal plate with their hands or a spoon. I'm used to this since I eat with my hand and am not alien to this custom. As my last meal in Abene, it was nice to eat with my hands, in nature and truly take in the village life.

I knew I was headed away from the village and would be greeted with city culture which would be a welcome change but I personally prefer living in a village; a life in all its simplicity.

Lai and his friends (friends of Khadijah) came with some drums and we sang songs and danced. Even though we were all fatigued, this experience was the icing on the cake.

The next day, we would say our Abene goodbyes and leave the beautiful Les Belles Etoille. I went through all the memorable events in my head: our arrival, the first day of the workshop, breakfasts with the participants, the Abene Festival, performing, popping my djembe skin, buying my African attire, driving in Abene, celebrating new years, my birthday, jogging on the beach, the irritating salesmen, the delicious food, spending time with and learning from Iya Sako, Seckou akeita and my master Mamady Keita and the speaking of the future (the potential of hosting him in India)...

This would be the end of an era...

Come. Drum. Be One.

Taal Inc.

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