Day 28 & 29: Home Sweet Home

Day 28 & 29 22/1/13 & 23/1/13 - flight back home

I'm not very good with goodbye's and even though it was a quick one with Tannis, I'd like to thank her from the bottom of my heart for being an absolutely wonderful co-traveler. Anyone who can tolerate me has my respect and Tannis, you take first prize. Thank you for a wonderful trip and for making me feel at home, away from home.

Partners in Crime - Tannis Zimmer and myself

I had an early start to the day since I had to be at the airport by 5:00 am for my 8:00 am flight. I knew I had excess baggage so I thought being early wouldn't hurt; it would only compliment the smiling and charming I would have to do at the airport to not pay an arm and a leg to bring a lovely djembe back to India. But alas, I guess I lack the smile. Nonetheless, I was all checked in soon enough to have a lot of time to sit and reflect on the last 27 days and how they passed by so quickly with a lot to take away and absorb.

It has sure been a long time that I have been away from all I know and am familiar with. I reconfirmed my hatred of being just a tourist in a new land. Hence it felt good to have two clear reasons for travel: the drum and vipassana meditation. This way I will always get a more in depth understanding of the culture by interacting with the people on a much deeper level than otherwise.

These 3 weeks have given me a lot to chew on in terms of the djembe, rhythms, solo techniques, songs, performance standards, tightness, dance and most importantly, West African (Senegalese) culture.

Some of the points that stand out are the similarities between Indian and Senegalese culture. We have many ethnic groups in India, with different languages, ceremonies, food, music and so on. Expressing oneself within this fabric of music, song and dance is a very important part of rural / village life in West Africa and in India. It is truly amazing, how the Djembe, the Sabar and just any kind of drum and performance can bring so much joy to an audience and the only way for the audience to appreciate that is by going up to the drummers and dancing leading up to the echauffment or singing or clapping very naturally in complicated polyrhythms or rhythmic subdivisions. I also note a major difference. I see that the people here, be them in a village or a city, are very comfortable and open with their sexuality. In my opinion, this is not as strong in India. Indian rural culture is far more conservative on the whole. This explains a lot of behaviour experienced in village life in Abene, for instance. When people come up to a foreigner and just start talking, initially, it is about being welcome in the village, then maybe about selling you something and then maybe just about chatting over some sweet and strong green tea. I find the same behaviour in India minus the genuine curiosity that fuels the chatting over tea, for example.

'Same same but different,' as they say in Thailand rings true at this moment.

As of now, I return with a heart full of new connections that I wish to explore, nourish and strengthen. Some connections are external and some internal. I feel I am more patient than when I set off for Senegal a month ago. I feel more comfortable with the path I'm on and have re-fueled my energy levels to carry on full speed ahead.

I feel blessed to have a very supporting family because if it wasn't for them none of this would be a reality. My second family, those who work with me, the entire Taal Inc. team have held fort so formidably that I can't wait to get back and experience this camaraderie that has now come to fruition.

There are a lot of things I have missed: my bed, Indian food, the chaos, the ease of communication and my work. I am happy to get back to these things and dive straight in to the work that lies ahead of me.

There are a lot of things that I will miss: the peaceful and laid back way of life in Abene, the food, the green tea (although I will try to make this when I am in India), the sound of the djembe in every soundscape that one is in, the music and the people who have grown so close to me.

I now wait to board my flight from Dakar to Bamako (possibly to Ouagadougou), followed by Adis Ababa, then Mumbai and finally Pune. Bon voyage to me and peace, love and light to all of you for having taken this journey with me.

One FINAL Group photo - photo credits - Tanya Price

Come. Drum. Be One.

Taal Inc.

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Day 26 & 27: Goodbye Abene, Hello Ziguinchor and Dakar!

Day 26 & 27 20/1/13 & 21/1/13 - departure to Ziguinchor and Dakar.

Today onward, starts the travel back home. I travel in small steps, gradually. My packing was almost done. I left all the clothes that I came with, with Coral to be given to this Leprosy community in Ziguinchor. That way, things that I don't need go to people who have nothing. I made sure that the staff at Les Belles Etoille also got a little something each. I was pretty much travelling with only my djembe, the skins (which I would check in) and a little suitcase with almost nothing. Not bad for a month’s travel huh? In spite of this I was ten kilos overweight. Sigh, I took a walk around the hotel where we had been every day, so regularly, to give it one final glance.

It is customary of Africans to give fruits to people who are setting out on a journey. So we had our share of fruit given very generously by the cleaning lady whom I never spoke to but always saw working had every day. I was very touched by her generosity.

With every few days the groups in the group photos kept getting more and more intimate. This was the final group as Tannis, Owen and I said our goodbyes.

The last group photo in Abene, Les Belles Etoilles.

Abudu drove us to Kafountine from where we would take a share taxi to Ziguinchor. Based on my experience of getting to Abene, I was ready for a very dusty journey. So I wore my skull cap and tied my handkerchief around my face and looked like a dacoit/robber the entire way, but it was worth it. In true style, there was a lot of haggling for payment for the luggage we were carrying and the odd ‘controls’ at the border but nothing we couldn't handle with some help from the locals we were traveling with. After two hours of inhaling dust and being tossed around like salad we reached Ziguinchor and then made our way to Seckou's place where we would meet Alieu, drop Owen and break journey for lunch before we left for the airport and got ready for another set of goodbyes.

Once again, in spite of his crazy schedule, Seckou had organized some Thiebu Djian for us and Even though we were pressed for time, we ate to our stomach's content; quickly, but to its content nonetheless. Khadijah, (Seckou's charming friend) offered to call the airport and let them know that we were on our way. I love that this was possible. I reminded me of Pune airport many years ago. She also drove us there and so we were at ease and didn't have to worry about not making it in time. God bless them. We reached the airport in the nick of time and had help from the airport staff thanks to Seckou and Khadijah. I felt like a rock star in Ziguinchor for a bit.

After having a closer look at the tickets while sorting out the excess baggage formalities (surprise surprise!), I realized that the flight to Ziguinchor was via Cap Skirring. Yet another hopping flight in my destiny. The flight to Cap Skirring was (believe it or not) ten minutes. And here I thought that the Mumbai - Pune flight was short.

We reached Dakar after two hours and went straight to Hotel Kingz Plaza. I felt familiar in an otherwise overwhelming big city. After settling in and freshening up tannis and I decided to head into the city to have dinner. Personally I wanted to eat Maffe Poulet (chicken in peanut sauce) one last time. We found a lovely place randomly from the Internet called Che Loutcha. It was a cute little place with a calm and peaceful ambiance and not to forget, mouth-wateringly delicious food.

That night I slept in since the following night would have to be spent in a flight. I checked my emails after almost a month and started the process of sieving through the junk and spam, under protest, little by little. It felt vaguely different to be connected to the world once again. I'm taking things in small doses so that it's not too much of a blaring shock for me.

To continue the family and familiarity in Dakar, Tannis and I got in touch with Matar, who lived there and had invited us to have lunch with him. He lives in home with his large family and within no time we were relaxing, reminiscing and eating a delicious portion of Thiebu Djian.

lunch at 'Che Matar' ;)

Tannis and Matar, at lunch!

After a filling lunch we decided to act like tourists for a change and hence visited the island of Goree. This is where Senegalese slaves were kept and then shipped to the USA. I had a mixed feeling as I first saw the island from the ferry.

Our first sighting of Goree island from the ferry

I didn't know what exactly to expect. The island now is a tourist destination and despite its dark history is very beautiful. There are a lot of restaurants and handicrafts for sale.

The house of the slaves was definitely a place that made us think about the kind of atrocities humankind if capable of.

some of the rooms at the House of Slaves, Goree Island, Dakar , Senegal

This is the last port (the place the slaves were put into the boats and taken to the USA).

... First person point of view of the 'Last Port' ...Goree Island, Dakar, Senegal

How ironic... the first thing I saw as I walked towards the 'Last Port'

We got back by 8pm and decked to meet Myriam who was also in the city taking her Sabar dancing course. Our last dinner would be one with beautiful people we met, the hospitality of Matar and his sister Khadi and great food.

The Last Supper :)

I was honored by the openness, generosity and hospitality of Matar and his family. I will miss him when I leave. After dinner it was that time again; we said our penultimate goodbyes and took a taxi to the hotel where I'd get three hours of sleep before I embark on my journey home.

Come. Drum. Be One.

Taal Inc.

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